Spirit Trees and Tandem Bikes

Indonesia is a pretty incredible tourist destination for foreigners. This country is brimming with life, culture and places of spectacular natural beauty. Another thing this country is brimming with is people; an increasingly mobilised, middle-class people. So, although there is a huge tourist industry for foreigners in Indonesia, there's also a comparable tourist industry for Indonesians looking to experience the wonders of their own country. Unfortunately, this local tourism industry often seems to miss the point a little, and throughout Java I've seen otherwise amazing places made to look unremarkable by the swarms of people selling kitchy toys and games and "souveniers", and young people who hang out in historically or naturally interesting places not because of the virtues of the place itself, but because it has become a cool place to hang out.

Where I went one Friday evening that I spent with a good friend of mine here, a couple of weeks ago, was no exception.

I was pretty miserable that night, having reluctantly ended a very important relationship to me, so Dim took it upon himself to cheer me up. First we went to a salsa night, where I mostly sat in awe watching him and other Indonesians dance incredible salsa. Afterwards though, Dim took me to a part of Jogja I've never been before.

The name of it escapes me now, but we went to the old palace the Sultan lived in during Dutch occupation. Apparently there was a whole section of the city that belonged to and was occupied solely by Jogja people, and where the Dutch didn't go.

So we got to the front of the palace, which consists of a large grassy field, ringed by a road, with two large "spirit trees" in the centre. Now, I've heard several Indonesians comment on this particular type of tree which is quite tall, with a thick trunk and long, flexible branches not unlike those of a weeping willow. Some of my friends think they harbour ghosts and spirits, and shy away from the thought of approaching one at night time. I'm sure I've heard one friend at least suggest that to do so could possibly result in such a spirit taking over your body. Apparently the trees were originally thought to help protect the palace from invaders. However, nowadays, they are the main attraction at this nongkrong (to hang out at night) spot. People don a blind fold, get a friend to spin them three times while they think very hard about a wish, then try to walk from the front of the palace and stop in the middle of the trees. Once in the middle, you have to try to turn and touch each tree through the middle of the gate protecting it. Now, although the first part of the actual walk is in a completely straight line, almost everyone for no discernible reason veers off dramatically before reaching the trees and ends up disoriented and quite a distance away. Plenty of friends contribute to this by shouting terus!! (keep going!!) encouragingly, no matter how close (or far away) from the trees you are. Apparently your success depends on how strongly you focus on your wish. After four tries and veering completely right, then left when I overcompensated, I finally stopped (barely) between the trees, and managed to touch each of them.

Afterwards, Dim and I had a turn on the palace's second most popular attraction - a huge collection of tandem (and three person) bicycles, decorated with flashing lights, that were for rent. After wandering around blindfolded, a few laps of the front of the palace on a tandem bike, and lots of talking with Dim, I was feeling much more settled.

Thanks Dim for showing me a fun little piece of Jogja, and for showing me that I can find my kind of people anywhere.